Few restaurants at the Jersey Shore bring you as close to the water as the Avon Pavilion. Open during the summer months only, this boardwalk restaurant in tiny Avon-by-the-Sea is open 7 days a week for the 2011 season as of May 12.
While browsing Chowhound message boards for restaurant suggestions in other towns, I came across a comment that suggested an inverse correlation between quality seafood and distance from the ocean: That is, the farther away you are from the ocean, the better the seafood is. The Avon Pavilion is a sure exception. At the helm in the kitchen since 1991 is Ken Samuels, a native of Asbury Park and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America.
I have been eating at the Avon Pavilion every summer for at least four years. While the standard menu has not changed much over that time, the Pavilion always offers daily specials. One of my favorite entrees from the regular menu is the San Tropez Shrimp -- bow tie pasta tossed with sautéed jumbo pink shrimp, Italian spinach, diced tomatoes, Spanish black olives and toasted pignoli nuts in a citrus veloute sauce (20.95).
This past weekend I made a dinnertime visit to the Avon Pavilion, ahead of the Memorial Day rush. Generally I would advise being in line at 5:30 p.m. when the restaurant opens, to ensure a good seat. Two weekends ahead of Memorial Day, the restaurant had a good crowd, but no waits for a table.
While part of the regular entree menu, crab cakes are often offered as an appetizer as well, and this is how I started my meal Saturday evening. These jumbo lump crab cakes are pure crab meat -- no filler -- and served with a side of roasted pepper creole mayonnaise ($10.95 for one). My friend started with a bowl of the "New Joisey" clam chowder. The menu's description of a "Jersey Shore zip" was right on, as this tomato-based seafood chowder was spicy.
For my entree, I veered from my usual seafood selections and instead tried a grilled strip steak from the specials menu. Plates here are always artfully prepared, and this was no exception. The tender steak was grilled medium, exactly as I ordered, and topped with lightly breaded, sauteed onions, and a light sprinkling of Maytag bleu cheese. All of Samuel's dishes seem to be garnished with a sliced strawberry, his signature I presume. And if this large plate was not enough, I was also served a side of roasted potatoes, string beans, broccoli and bell peppers.
The potions are generous and filling, but the desserts are also tempting. I finished the evening with my favorite: Toll House pie a la mode, a warm chocolate chip cookie tart topped with ice cream, Hershey's chocolate sauce and whipped cream ($8.95).
Service here is always friendly, with a good dose of Jersey personality -- and I mean that in a good way.
Avon Pavilion is BYOB. The nearest liquor store is Casagrande on Main Street, though selection is limited. Best to travel a few blocks north to Shore Wine and Liquor in Bradley Beach.
Avon's beach and boardwalk is quiet and laid-back. No games or vendors on the boardwalk, and no 20-somethings partying (for that scene, head one town north to Belmar.) Occasionally during the summer, a group of seniors plays old time music and dancing just a few steps south of the Pavilion. Parking is free in Avon, but beach badges are required after Memorial Day.
After dinner, a stroll on the boardwalk is a good way to unwind. But alas, on Saturday night, my car was in Sea Girt, so a bike ride awaited me.
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